Ask An Expert: Achieve Your Healthiest Skin!

We asked 11 of Memphis’ top-tier skincare experts about their favorite products, skincare tips, procedures they love and ones to skip, and more for our July skincare issue. Start taking care of the skin you’re in with advice from these professionals!

By Lucy Modzelewski

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Most common skincare mistakes: Not being consistent with your skincare routine, sleeping with makeup on, and not wearing sunscreen 24/7.

Biggest skincare myth: You don’t need sunscreen inside or when it’s cloudy outside – hello, windows and blue light!

My favorite skincare procedure: Lumecca and microneedling combo. It makes the skin glow!

When to start using anti-aging products: The earlier, the better, and in your teens, if possible. Prevention is your best line of defense!

My skincare routine: In the morning, I start with Obagi ZO cleanser, Vitamin C, Daily Power Defense Moisturizer, and Elta MD sunscreen. At night, I use Obagi ZO cleanser, 1.0 retinol, Bright Alive, and ZO Hydrating Cream. If my skin is extra dry, I’ll add Growth Factor Serum.

My best piece of skincare advice: Always wear sunscreen and pay for high-end skincare. It’s worth it!

One skincare procedure to avoid: Going to the tanning bed. It’s so bad for your skin!

My 2024 skin trend prediction: Prevention is the best line of defense – good skin is for everyone!

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Anti-aging products and procedures: It’s never too early to care for your skin! I encourage all my clients to have their kids as young as 10 on a good cleansing regimen and use sunscreen. In our twenties, we start to lose collagen, so that’s a good time to step your game up regarding anti-aging products and preventative treatments.

Biggest skincare myth: Sometimes people think that one product, one facial, or one laser treatment will fix twenty to thirty years of sun damage or neglect. No one product or treatment is going to be a magic wand. Having healthy, radiant skin is usually a process and a commitment. Also, not all skincare products are created equally. The serums and creams at the drugstore and from multi-level marketing companies are not formulated in the same way medical grade skincare is. You may see some of the same ingredients on the bottle at the drugstore, but medical-grade skincare products contain higher concentrations of active ingredients, which makes a difference.

My best skincare advice: Sunscreen! Every. Single. Day. Even in the winter, even if you have dark skin, and even if you “aren’t outside for that long.” Reapplying throughout the day is important, too.

Skincare product I avoid: I’m not too fond of makeup-removing wipes. They are abrasive and contain alcohol and other harmful chemicals that disrupt the PH balance of your skin.

New procedure I’m excited about: I am so excited about a new laser we have called Aviclear. It’s the first FDA-approved laser to treat mild to severe acne. It’s a fast treatment with no downtime, and the before and after from clinical trials are impressive. Helping someone struggling with acne have clear skin is one of the most rewarding parts of my job, so I feel very fortunate to have this device in my tool belt.

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Biggest skincare misconception: To all my sun worshippers, there is NO SUCH THING AS A BASE OR HEALTHY TAN. With the rising numbers of skin cancers today, the misconception of sunscreen use is still an issue. I have patients and friends that believe “you will not get tan if sunscreen is applied.” Trust me. You will still get tan. The sunscreen protects your skin from UVB (burning) and UVA (aging) rays.

My best skincare advice: Never sleep in your makeup! Sleeping in your makeup clogs your pores and prevents your skin from breathing. This also speeds up the aging process and causes breakouts. Even if you are too lazy to complete the rest of your evening skincare regimen, at least wash your face.

My POV on anti-aging products: The best age to start anti-aging products and procedures is in your twenties. The very first signs of aging usually begin around the eyes. Starting with eye cream in your twenties can help prevent aging or slow the aging process around your eyes. This is also when your skin starts to lose water, which is where your hyaluronic acid comes in place.

Most common skincare mistakes: One main common mistake is the assumption that in-office treatments alone, without proper at-home skincare, will help treat their concerns. At-home skincare will help maintain the results from in-office treatments. Other common skincare mistakes are improper use of skincare products, not washing your face twice a day or at all, and not using sunscreen daily or properly.

My 2024 skin trend prediction: The beauty trends are already shifting to a more health, wellness, and holistic approach. What we put inside our body will also reflect the condition of our skin. I think we will see an increase in treating the whole person with regards to nutrition, hydration, hormones, and education, a 360 approach if you will, for healthy glowing skin and confidence that helps a person not only look great but FEEL great as well!

For more information or to schedule an appointment visit Mmcwh360.com or call 901.752.4000

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My favorite skincare brand: I love Skinbetter! The eye serum, toner, and sunscreen are my favorites. The sunscreen doesn’t leave a white cast on darker skin and softens the skin tone.

The foundation for any skincare routine: Balancing facial wash, moisturizer, retinol, and sunscreen.

One treatment you should never DIY: Cosmetic injectables, such as Botox and fillers. Those are medical treatments and should only be done by a licensed medical professional – not at home!

New skin treatment I’m excited about: Morpheus8 RF microneedling gives the best results I’ve seen. It is great for helping with acne, shrinking pores, and evening out skin tone.

Most common skincare mistake: Not giving a product ample time to work and using too many products simultaneously.

One product that I think is overhyped: Some of these face masks. Many are ineffective or have ingredients not helpful for certain skin types.

My biggest piece of skincare advice: When trying a new skincare product, give it at least two months to see results.

Biggest skincare misconception: That your diet and gut health don’t affect your skin.

My 2024 skin trend prediction: I think the “no makeup” trend will continue to grow. More and more people are starting to want healthy skin so they can glow with or without makeup!

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My ultimate skincare advice: The most important advice I give to all of my patients is that “it’s never too late to love your skin,” and that phrase goes so far beyond age. It can be people struggling with self-confidence or patients overwhelmed with life and feeling like they don’t have time for their skin.

Products/treatments to avoid: At-home lasers can be a little tricky. They’re great if you have already been to a professional clinician for that specific laser treatment, but to buy the device and think you’ll get in-office results is a misconception.

New products I’m excited about: Plant-based exosomes are making their way into the skincare world. They’re active, naturally-occurring secretory factors from plants: liposomes, peptides, and anti-stress factors. Exosomes are chemical-free, water-based, and made in the USA. I wouldn’t be surprised if major skin care companies started implementing exosomes in their product lines.

Biggest skincare mistake: The misuse of Retin-As and Tretinoin. For the most part, I find that patients are not using their products correctly. They know to use these products, but they don’t really know how, and that’s because everyone’s skin is different and needs to be touched and looked at by a professional. It’s not something you should just Google and hope for the best.

My best-kept beauty secret: Aestheticians are skincare’s best-kept secrets. Love yourself and find an aesthetician that loves your skin just as much.

2024 skincare prediction: Skincare dominates right now, but hair and skin go hand in hand. Hair and scalp health are on the rise – a large portion of patients consults are people with hair loss concerns. Hair and scalp health is one of the fastest-growing and most exciting fields in aesthetics. The industry has already evolved so much from hair transplants to injections and now even more painless procedures. From post-COVID hair loss to hormonal changes and imbalances caused by pregnancy or menopause, more and more people have experienced hair loss.

For more information or to schedule an appointment visit Glomedmemphis.com or call 901.552.3461

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My best-kept beauty secret: Double cleanse. Not groundbreaking, but it makes a difference! Pre-cleanse with a gel or oil-based cleanser to remove makeup, then go back in with an active ingredient cleanser. The second cleanse is insurance for your first cleanse and can be your “treatment” cleanse. If you have acne, look for a second cleanse with salicylic acid for aging glycolic. For brightening, look for Vitamin C, etc.

Skincare essentials: I always say people need three things in their routine: a retinol for anti-aging and promoting cellular turnover, a Vitamin C serum for antioxidants and free-radical protection/dryness, and an SPF for sun protection.

One skincare procedure you should never DIY: Dermablading- just leave this to the pros! We’re using medical grade #10R scalpels, so we are fully educated and trained to safely treat the skin with this tool. Not only that, but we’re treating you with a full protocol, including cleansing, degreasing the skin’s oils, using a blade glide, and treating post-dermablading with healing lipid serums, something you can’t get at home. Get a dermablade from a professional, and then you can see the difference and be the judge!

Most common skincare mistake: Using Witch Hazel while not having oily or acne-prone skin. Witch Hazel was huge back in the day, and there weren’t many other options for effective skincare. Many women used alcohol-based toners in their youth to prevent acne but continued using them until their older years and experienced extreme dryness. It goes back to using what you know, but that may not be what you need anymore. A good rule of thumb is to re-evaluate your skin and skincare over the years and remember to adjust accordingly!

My number one skincare advice: Wash your face and always wear sunscreen – your future self will thank you!

My favorite skin procedure: Hydrafacial! It’s perfect for anyone who has never had a facial or is used to advanced procedures. It’s customizable from the tips you use, lymphatic drainage, booster serums, LED therapy, percentage of the “peel,” or even add on a lip or eye perk. So never feel like you can’t boost your Hydrafacial experience!

My 2024 skin trends prediction: I think we’ll see a rise in combination therapy! Combining modalities is the way of the future, and I can’t wait to see what we will be teaming up to treat skin in the coming years!

For more information or to schedule an appointment visit Delabelle.net or call 901.459.3338

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When to start skincare: I would advise you to start a simple skincare routine in your teens to help develop an effective daily process. Good habits start early, and you can always add to your regimen as you age. Regarding preventative procedures, like chemical peels and lasers, it depends on your true skin care needs, which you can determine by making an appointment with an aesthetician for a skin evaluation.

New products I’m excited about: Exosomes are really hot right now. We use EXOE Detox and Repair, an organic plant-based stem cell rejuvenation serum. It’s three times faster recovery and ten times the stimulation of collagen, elastin, and Hyaluronic Acid. It’s even made locally here in Cordova, TN, and is a great add-on for any skin care rejuvenation procedure (especially microneedling and RF lasers) to promote little to no downtime.

One treatment you should never DIY: At-home chemical peels because they can cause serious pigment damage if not done properly.

Must-have elements of your skincare routine: Gentle face wash, Vitamin C (skin brightener), hydrator/moisturizer, peptide, antioxidant to combat free radicals, hydroquinone (pigment control for my darker skin type clients), and sunscreen.

Biggest skincare misconception: That you don’t need sunscreen. The sun is damaging to all skin types regardless of color. Everyone needs sunscreen. And there is a specific sunscreen for your face.

My favorite skincare procedure: Right now, my favorite skin rejuvenation procedure is our Scarlett RF Microneedling. This treatment has many benefits, like improved texture, firmer skin, decreased fine lines and wrinkles, and minimal downtime.

My 2024 skin trend prediction: I think we will see more CBD in skincare products. For someone who struggles with dry skin, this element has been a game-changer for me. Like other free radicals, CBD is effective in acne treatments, calms the skin, regulates oil production, and helps with fine lines and wrinkles. They are even finding it benefits people with psoriasis and eczema.

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What every skincare routine needs: I am a huge proponent of individualized skincare routines, but if you are a living, breathing human being, you need an antioxidant blend serum (including Vitamin C but not just Vitamin C), a retinol/retinoid, and SPF.

Most common skincare mistake: One of the most common skincare mistakes I see as an aesthetician is people using too many different skincare products without the guidance of a provider.

New procedures I’m excited about: PRP/PRF to promote collagen and elastin plus around the eyes for all things eye aging. I’m also loving the Perfect Derma Peel – it continues to impress me as it is a very productive blend of acids to provide a full face reset, but on top of that has a really powerful antioxidant called glutathione that hones in on pigment. That pigment could be sun damage pigment or, more specifically, a hormone-induced pigment called melasma. I look forward to working with this brand and seeing what they come up with this next year, in addition to the Perfect Derma Peel. And, of course, the power and efficiency of LED Light Therapy!

My best skincare advice: Form a relationship with a dermatologist and aesthetician to guide you down your individualized skincare journey.

Biggest skincare misconception: The biggest myth and most common misconception, to me, is that social media knows what skincare products you need in your routine and what procedures are best for you.

One product to avoid: Nose strips for blackhead removal. This type of product overpromises and underdelivers every time. The strip acts as glue and stretches the pores on your nose, allowing more debris, old makeup, and dirt to reside.

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My best-kept beauty secret: Add a light at-home chemical peel, like glycolic or lactic acid, every two to five weeks for chemical exfoliation to your skincare regimen! Just be careful and consult a professional before you start because you may need to avoid certain products like retinoids, retinol, and AHA/BHA products for a few days before or after.

A new procedure I’m excited about: Morpheus8. This procedure has a wide range of uses. Not only can patients utilize the therapy for tightening the skin on the face, but it also can be used to treat other areas of the skin. I’ve been working with several patients on their thighs to help improve the appearance of cellulite and skin laxity with amazing results.

My biggest piece of skincare advice: Apply an SPF of at least 50 EVERY DAY. Sunscreen is not just for when you know you will be outside for hours. Do your research, or better yet, seek professional help to determine which skincare products you need. There is a lot of redundancy with products, and also, certain products shouldn’t be mixed, like retinol and Vitamin C, which can increase skin irritation.

An overhyped skincare product: Cellulite and stretch mark creams. I have not seen any significant studies proving any topical product/cream that will improve cellulite or stretch marks. Honestly, they appear to be just an expensive body moisturizer in a fun bottle.

Skincare routine essentials: Tretinoin and a daily SPF! Tretinoin is a prescription retinoic acid treatment that speeds up the life cycle of skin cells. It makes them divide faster and die faster, so newer, healthier cells can take their place. This helps to significantly improve the appearance of surface wrinkles, fine lines, and dark spots. And everyone, male or female, young and old, should be wearing an SPF daily!

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Biggest skincare myth: That you need a ten-step skincare routine. Sometimes less is more with your skin, and by choosing the correct products for your particular skin, you can have a minimal routine and still have beautiful, healthy skin.

My best-kept beauty secret: At Glo, we don’t gatekeep, so I give everyone all my tips and tricks! Good pearls of wisdom to know are always staying hydrated, using self-tanners and never tanning beds, and the Lightstim LED bed to help reduce inflammation and boost your immune system.

My favorite skin procedure: Microneedling because it triggers your body’s natural wound-healing process to stimulate collagen and elastin production. Therefore it helps with several concerns like fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, acne, and acne scarring.

My biggest piece of skincare advice: Always use medical-grade skincare products. The products at Ulta and Sephora are super cute and fun, and you see them all over social media, but there are two huge differences between medical-grade skincare versus over-the-counter products.

Medical-grade skincare uses a smaller molecule, so it penetrates your skin rather than just sitting on the surface like over-the-counter products, and medical-grade skincare products contain a higher percentage of active ingredients. Just because a product says hyaluronic acid or retinol doesn’t mean it has enough to make a difference in your skin.

Most common skincare mistake: People with oily skin not using a hydrator.

New products I’m excited about: The EXO|E plant-based stem cell line. It uses 15 billion exosomes and thousands of active stem cells to make your skin the healthiest it’s ever been.

My 2024 skin trend prediction: Regenerative aesthetic medicine, such as stem cells, exosomes, and skin boosters will be huge.

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By Lucy Modzelewski